Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Its Been a While...Sorry!

Hello Curlies and Curlies in Transition!

Whoa! It has been over a year since my last post. It is time for a MAJOR update! Instead of making 1 ridiculously long post, I'll add several shorter, topic-based posts.

For today's post, to get myself back in the game, I'll just provide an overview of my major hair journey milestones:

Picture at start of transition (Feb, 2012)
Picture at big chop (Feb, 2013)

Pictures at 2 years natural (Feb, 2015)

I have made a ton of mistakes and bad decisions along the way from drying hair dyes to bad hair cuts. I'll share my lessons learned from each in upcoming blogs. All and all though, I have LOVED my hair ever since I big-chopped all the relaxed ends off over 2 years ago. Here's to NEVER looking back at the creamy-crack!

Smooches!
CurlieE


Monday, March 25, 2013

One Month Post BC

Hello Curlies and Curlies in Transition!

It has been 1 month since I cut my relaxed hair off, so I wanted to post about the good, the bad, and the ugly! Well, maybe just the good and the bad, lol....there hasn't been any ugly!

The Good:
  • Growth- When I cut my hair a month ago, the hair remaining on my head measured at 4 inches. Yesterday, my hair measured at 5.5 inches!
  • Cute- Everyone loves my hair everywhere I go!
  • Convenient- When I wash my hair, it only takes about an hour- 2 hours to air dry and about 30 minutes under a hooded dryer!
  • Working out- My hair used to limit my workout schedule... I couldn't work out right after I washed and roller set it, etc. But now, I think the  more I do the bigger and better my hair looks later.
  • Cute/ Convenient- Most nights when I go to bed I do not have to do anything. No durags or scarves or anything! So that's convenient and cute...except when I wake up with the flat side-head look lol.
  • Skin- Maybe its all in my head, but I feel like my skin is clearer and more radiant. Maybe it has to do with the more natural products I am using on my hair now? I dunno...
  • Exciting!- I love change =-)

The Bad:
  • Growth- I know you are thinking, "Isn't growth a good thing?" Well, of course it is. However, due to the growth, I am now in the awkward stage where the styles I was starting to get used to don't look right anymore...like the puff. Last month this was my staple. Now, it looks crazy...like a big skunk is sitting on my head!

  • Limited- Because I am in this in between stage I feel limited in styles. My hair isn't quite long enough to do many of the twist out and up do styles I see on YouTube, but it isn't short enough to rock the puff anymore. Even the curly-fro looks weird at this length.
  • Shrinkage- I didn't notice the shrinkage so much last month, but now!?!?! Its so frustrating when I wet my hair, style it and roll out...then I walk past a window or a mirror later in the day and I'm like, "That is NOT how I styled my hair this morning!?!" So I start trying to pull it to stretch it out, but without oil or some type of lubricant on my fingers...here comes the frizz!
  • Sleeping- I know I said earlier that since cutting my hair it is cuter and more convenient at bedtime...I said MOST nights! But there are many times I am surfing YouTube, and I see a style that I want to try. These styles almost always require the hair to air dry overnight. (i.e. bantu knot outs, flexirods, etc). These things are NOT comfortable to sleep in!
  • Protecting Styles at Night- When I do make it through the night to create a new style, my hair is usually awesome that next morning...so awesome that I want to keep it in for a few days. BUT, my hair is too short to use the pineapple method (gathering all the hair in a pony tail at the top of my head) to protect the style from frizzing up or getting flat for the next day.
Styles I Have Tried Since Last Month:

Using Elastic Hair Comb on old bantu knot out:
Using Elastic Hair Comb on  FlexiRod set:
 Wash and go with Headband:
 Using Cold Rods:


Love you all,

Curlie E

Friday, March 8, 2013

The Story of My Big Chop


After exactly 1 year of transitioning, on February 21st, 2013 I cut 12 inches of relaxed hair off of my head! This was me at the start of this Thursday:
 
 
A year ago I had planned to do my big chop on this day. However, as the week approached I had decided to wait another month or so (people's advice to wait until after my wedding started to get to me). Soo I proceeded to wash my hair. I had been wearing it straight (rollset) for the last few weeks, and was totally bored with that look. I sat with my hair wet trying to decide what to do with it as it started to dry. I figured, "why not!" So I ran to my fiance and asked him what I should do. He said, "Cut it!" I turned to my best friend, and he said the same thing. So I went in the bathroom and started cutting away...


While I was doing so my fiance and best friend were making a documentry (I will post that as soon as I learn how).



Anyway, when I was done I was excited and frustrated all at once. I was excited to see the cute little curls popping out all over my head.

Buuuuut.....I had absolutely no idea WHAT to do with them! AND I was not expecting them to be as short as they were. The lenth the new growth looked like it would be before the cut was drastically different from what it actually is. Even in the picture of me cutting above, my hair is much longer than it has been since, and I havent cut it anymore. I guess it was that long because it had dried attached to relaxed ends? Who knows!



Well, I woke up early the next morning and was scared at what I saw. I had a matted, lop-sided afro on my head. What had I done?! So I watched a few YouTube videos to figure out what to do. I decided to try a flat twistout. So I dampened my hair, flat twisted it and went back to bed. When I woke up and took our the twist, I was a HOT mess. My hair looked super thin and stringy. Frustrated, I FORCED my hair into a ponytail and used Marley braiding hair to make a bun:

 
 
Saturday, I had more time to play around with styles. I hit up the hair store and got a few hair cremes that are supposed to help with frizz and also stretch curly hair. Then I came home and washed my hair, used the creme and coconut oil and let it air dry. This look was kinda cute, but I still didn't feel totally comfortable with it- not enough to go out in public anyway.
 
 



So I went BACK to the hair store and bough a half wig:


I rocked this for about half a week. But I really can't do wigs. They give me headaches and are annoying to me. So I kept experimenting with new styles. And FINALLY I found a style I felt comfortable wearing to work- the classic puff!


So, I had been natural over a week and no one knew because I had been wearing the bun and the half wig. When I finally appeared with the puff everyone LOVED it! So I haven't woren the wig or bun since. I have just been rockin the puff. However, today I tried something new, well new for my natural hair- flexirods! Luckily, I have flexirods in all sizes (I have always been in love with curly styles).






So here we are! I did my big chop. Initally, I was a bit disappointed and discouraged. But within a week I started to find my groove and now I have my confidence back! I don't regret it at all! I am in love with my hair now, and as it grows so will my love for it!

-Curlie E

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Upcoming BC and Wedding

Updated options below 4/24/2013

Wow, its only 17 days into 2013, and I have already experienced so much and have made so many decisions! This is going to be a great, memorable year! (I am claiming it!)

First, I need to start with an apology! I have been MIA, both literally and figuratively. Literally, I have have been in Miami several times over the last few months for the holidays because that is where all my closest family members reside. I have been MIA figuratively because I have had a lot on my plate lately, mainly with wedding planning. Oh yea, remember on my last post I was preparing to go to Cancun, and I was worried about how manageable my transitioning hair would be (so much so that I was considering doing my big chop earlier)? Well, that is the trip in which I got engaged!!!  So since I have been back it has been a series of traveling and wedding planning.

Moving on, I have news...I will be doing my big chop in less than a month! I am finally ready! I would do it today, but I want to reach the 1 year transitioning goal I set for myself last February. Also, I need help. I don't think it'd be smart to try to cut the back alone, so I have to call a friend to help. And that is not as easy as it sounds because many of the people I have told are advising me to wait to big chop until after the wedding (August 2013). But that is not going to happen! If I have to deal with these 2 textures for another 8 months I will scream, maybe even cry, every wash day!

Before I wrap this update up, I want to ask for you help/ suggests/ ideas. I am trying to find a cute and elegant style for natural hair to wear on my wedding day. If you have any ideas, please post them below. Also, keep me in mind when you are surfing the internet or passing natural women in the street. I have a few ideas. Tell me what you think:

Option 1 (the one I am leaning toward):
 Option 2:
 Option 3:
 Option 4:
                                                            None of these options!


Option 5:
 Option 6:
 Option 7 (would get a sew in for this look):
 Option 8:
Option 9 (would need to add a piece for this look):

Option 10:
Option 11 (keep in mind my hair is not this silky, so it would look a little more bulky on me):
Best,

CurlieE

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

The Verdict is in!


After pondering a little more about whether or not to B.C. I have come to a decision!

I came to my conclusion by watching YouTube videos of ladies B.C.-ing at various lengths of time (6 months, 9 months 1 year, 2 years). And what I realized it that I probably won't be totally comfortable with my hair at a 6 month length. I think I will be much more comfortable B.C.-ing at 9 months! So here's to 3 more months of transitioning...

-Curlie E

Thursday, August 23, 2012

"Follow the Rules for a Beautiful Summer" recap

They say hind-sight is 20-20, while that may be true there is no reason we can't learn from the hind-sight of others! Earlier I read an article in the New York Times about a woman who dropped into a local nail shop to get a manicure and ended up in Mount Sinai Hospital- it was a sad story, but the article proceeded to give great tips to stay safe while staying beautiful!

I know time is of the essence, so I'll briefly summarize the main point presented in the article "Follow the Rules for a Beautiful Summer."


Tips to Ensure You Are Not Putting Yourself At More Risk

Manicure/ Pedicure
  • Avoid pedicures if your heels are cracked because when cracked your feet are open to infections lurking in the pedicure whirlpools and on files that haven’t been sufficiently cleaned
  • Have the manicurist/ pedicurist push your cuticles back instead of cutting them. Cuticles serve a purpose- to protect the base of the nail from infection
  • Avoid gel sets like Gelish and CND Shellac because they are removed with acetone, which can be extremely drying and can cause nails to become brittle or to crack.
    • With all soak-off gels, aestheticians trying to get off stubborn color often end up removing layers of nail, too.
    • Most gel manicures use ultraviolet lamps to affix each layer of the product. Even though hands aren’t under the lamp for that long (six minutes total with Shellac), there is a link between UV exposure and the development of skin cancer, which is why some people also avoid the UV drying lamps used after even regular manicures.
Waxing
  • Can lead to ingrown hairs, which can become infected
  • Less risk with shaving, but beware of nicks near the knees and ankles and don't share razors
  • Avoid waxing and shaving around broken skin
Eyelash Extensions
  • If you damage the follicle, you can permanently lose your lashes
    • Try not to scratch and tug at the false lashes to prevent follicle damage
  • The glue used can irritate the eyes
    • If your lids feel itchy, moist or irritated in any way remove the lashes and maybe true a different glue the next time around
*My experience with false individual lashes was devastating. I guess I was allergic to the glue because my lashes would not stop itching. I ended up pulling them straight off and losing half my lashes int eh process. They did grow bad though, and now when I want the thick/ long lash look I use the strip of lashes you can buy in CVS and they don't bother me at all.

Hair Extensions
  • They apply pressure , which can lead to alopecia or hair breakage
    • Take time off between adding and removing extensions
    • Opt for clip-on versions
    • Opt for half and full wigs they are customly fitted for your head
*I personally have the click on extensions, and when I used to wear my hair straight, I loved them! They are quick to put in, they stay secure and the are undetectable!

Spray tans
  • Wear a mask when spray tanning
    • The active colorant in self-tanners, DHA, was approved by the Food and Drug Administration for external use, meaning that it’s potentially harmful if it gets in your eyes, is ingested, or is inhaled through your mouth and nose, something that is nearly impossible to avoid during spray tanning.

For the full article visit: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/02/fashion/manicures-and-other-beauty-rituals-can-pose-health-threats.html?ref=hair

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

To B.C. or Not to B.C.- That is the Question!

Hello everyone,

As I mentioned in the last post, I am seriously thinking about doing a Big Chop! Not because transitioning is too difficult or anything, but because 1) I am impatient/ excited and 2) I will be going on vacation this week!

Although transitioning is going well, I don't really want to be on my all-inclusive vacation fussing with my hair. The best way I know how to make tough decisions to to list the pros and cons, so here they go. If you have any pros or cons to add to my list, please, help a sistah out!

PROS

1. I won't have to spend 2+ hours washing and detangling my hair while on vacation and in general
2. It would be a cute change
3. This may be the only time I'll get to see my hair short
4. I can always put braids in if it doesn't look good
5. No weather worries (no more running for cover at the slightest sign of rain or humidity

CONS

1. I may not like the look
2. If I don't like the look I will feel self-conscious on my vacation (and for several months after)
3. My styling options will be limited (no more up dos for a while)
4. If it doesn't look good, I can put braids in, but not in time for my vacation!
5. Negative/ weird attitude from others, particularly at work

What to do, what to do?
Well, the pros and cons list is tied up! Guess I actually have to figure out what I really want to do!

Let me ponder on this a little more.

-Curlie E

Saturday, August 18, 2012

August Check-in


Hi guys! Happy Saturday! Since I took my braids out, and because its August, I thought I'd check in and post an update on my growth progress. So here it is...



By the way, 3 days from now- August 21st- will be the 6th month of my transition! My plan was to transition for 12 months, but I am starting to get impatient. I see a big chop in my future. I really want to do it now, but I'm not too comfortable with the current length, so maybe in another month or two. I did do a mini chop today on a really small section just so I could see the actaul length. Here is the hair I cut off:


I would post a picture of the mini-chopped section of my hair, but I couldn't get a good picture because its in the back of my head. Maybe I will get someone to take a picture for me next wash day. Anyway, have a great weekend everyone!

Happy Growing!

-CurlieE



Friday, August 10, 2012

Naomi Campbell Suffering from Traction Alopecia




This post is not to hate on or put Naomi on blast. It is to give people a heads-up about traction alopecia, which is what experts believe Naomi is suffering from. Traction alopecia is a hair loss condition that is often caused by wearing weaves and extensions over an extended period of time.

Usually, it can be treated, but Naomi's might not be able to be treated because it seems that her follicles are totally damaged. This could have been prevented had she treated the matter earlier. The best she can do now is 1) lose the weave, which is causing stress to her edges and their follicles, or she will continue to experience breakage and 2) wear fitted custom wigs instead of weaves. The key here is a custom wig that has been fitted just for her head. One size fits all wigs tend to shift and rub up and down against hair causing dryness and breakage.

Weaves and wigs are great protective/ low-manipulation styles when the proper precautions are taken! So please, don't take this post as a scare tactic. Rather, take is as advice to invest in quality weaves and wigs. And don't forget to continue to hair for your hair while it is tucked away. This is the only way to capitalize on the benefits of these protective styles.

I hope this was helpful!

-Curlie E

Friday, August 3, 2012

Oprah Gone Natural?


According to Oprah, off-camera she lets her hair do it's natural thing! And now she's doing it in-front of the camera for the cover of her September issue of O where she is sporting a 'fro!

So has Oprah been natural all this time?

Well, last year, Oprah explained that she "had thick hair, and it messed up the chroma key, which is that blue wall they put behind you. And the news director came to me one day and said, 'Your hair's too thick, and you need a complete makeover.'" So she put chemical relaxer in it - and a lot of her hair fell out.

According to Oprah's longtime stylist Andre Walker, Oprah semi-relaxes her hair for the camera and magazine covers, but keeps the chemicals to a minimal level.

So what do you think, is Oprah natural, semi-natural or is a relaxer a relaxer? Either way, I'm lovin the look!

-Curlie E

Thursday, August 2, 2012

US Olympic Gymnist Gabby Douglas Hair Haters

View the full article here: Monisha’s Minute: The Gabby Douglas Hair Controversy…Unwrapped

Read more on the topic here: The Huffington Post: Black Voices

Excerpt:

After reading comments on Facebook and Twitter such as:

"She needs some gel and a brush…,"
"Someone needs to give her a hair intervention…"
"She has to “represent”…"

Monisha from sportyafros.com expressed her feelings that the comments really touch on 3 key issues:


1) A large number of Black women do not work out because of their beloved hairstyle. This is so sad and this is why Sporty Afros was created. We are here to help women with their workout hair care solutions and crush excuses such as “I can’t workout because of my hair.”

2) Many of us, Black women, have acquired the horrible habit of criticizing each other from head to toe with no regards of its repercussions. It’s almost like a sport to see how many laughs or likes one’s criticisms can get on Facebook or retweets on Twitter. Once again criticism has trumped compliments. And as a Black woman, this saddens me.

3) Putting more focus on Gabby’s hair and not her athleticism proves many of us are still missing the point on where true beauty, strength, and health lies. Some of us are sitting up right now with our hair done but suffering from high blood pressure, borderline diabetes, obesity, and/or a lack of energy. Oh, but the hair is on point. As mentioned earlier, I don’t know Gabby Douglas personally and I would never try to speak on her behalf. However, I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that she considers her health and fitness level to be a little more important than her hair staying in place.


Interesting article! What are your thoughts? Please comment them below...

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Which oil should you buy?


Oils seem to be all the rave lately- and with good reason. Numerous products are now being named after plant-based oils even though they only contain trace amounts of these oils- don't believe me? Check out the ingredients list!
  To ensure you are not being riped off, and more importantly, you are not purchasing products for their natural qualities only to find that they are loaded with silicones and synthetic oils, be sure to either check the ingredients list or purchase your oils from Whole Foods, Big Bear or other natural food stores. When checking the ingredients of natural oils, the only ingredient listed should be the name of the oil you are purchasing.

Ok, so now you know to check the ingredients list or purchase from natural food stores, but which oil should you purchase? This post will compare the 5 most popular oils by properties and benefits and leave it up to you to choose!

 

Argan Oil Benefits:

While argan oil has many benefits, most of them pertain to skin health. Because it contains 80% fatty acids with loads of vitamin E, not only does is make your skin extremely soft and supple, it helps cure many skin ailments such as acne, stretchmarks, eczema and psoriasis. The Argan leaves also have a high concentration of polyphenols, known for their anti-free radical properties and for the prevention of skin aging.

As an oil treatment, Argan oil helps seal the hair cuticle to protect against damage caused by chemicals as well as excessive heat from styling and environmental abuses. Read the product label to see where Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, or Argan oil, is listed as an ingredient. The earlier you find it in the list, the greater the quantity found in the product. Argan oil is traditionally used to treat:

  • Split ends- Argan oil contains unsaturated fats omega 3 and omega 9 which helps prevent split ends by strengthening the protein bonding structures of the hair
  • Dry, itchy scalp- Apply to scalp and wrap head in a warm towel for 30 minutes or overnight to soothe irritation.
  • Dull hair- If your hair lacks luster, smooth it on for intense shine and vibrancy.

  • Damage protection/ sealant- Helps seal moisture in the hair cuticle to prevent damage caused by dryness, also, contains vitamin E which is great for a healthy scalp and repairing damaged hair
Coconut Oil Benefits

The main benefit of coconut oil for your hair is that its molecules are small enough to actually penetrate the hair shaft and deposit the nutrients of the oil directly to the hair shaft. You see, coconut oil is a saturated oil. Saturated oils are solid at room temperature (can be softened easily by running container under hot water). These oils can more readily penetrate hair fibers than other oils due to their straight chain molecules, which allow them to slip easily into hair fibers. Coconut oil also has polar properties, which means that 1 end of each molecule is positively charged and the other is negatively charged. Its polarity properties are attracted to hair's keratin protein deep in hair fibers. This is beneficial for several reasons: 1) strengthens overall hair fibers, 2) reduces rate hair shaft is able to expand when wet, which prevents hygral fatigue- when hair expands too much when wet and breaks while drying.

FYI: A study by researchers A. S. Rele and R. B. Mohile published in the "Journal of Cosmetic Science" in 2003 showed that coconut oil reduced protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. The researchers suggest that since coconut oil is a triglyceride of a principal fatty acid -- lauric acid -- it has a high affinity for hair proteins. The study said "because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, [coconut oil] is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft."

Coconut oil, like olive oil, works especially well for those with coarse or thick hair since it is a thicker oil.
  • Prevents Shampoo Damage: Saves hair from protein stripping effects of shampoo
  • Prevents Hygral fatigue
  • Prevents Lice
  • Anti-Dandruff: The various fatty acids present in Coconut Oil serve as very good anti dandruff agents and are way better than any anti dandruff shampoo.
  • Styling: Coconut oil can be good styling oil for hair too, as it melts on heating and then condenses on cooling. So when you apply it on your hair, it thins and spreads evenly due to heat of the scalp. Soon afterwards, as the hair comes in contact with air, the oil on hair condenses on cooling and thus works as a styling gel or cream.
  • Prevents Hair Loss: One of the most responsible reasons behind hair fall and hair loss is microbial action on the scalp and hair roots. So, to protect hair against them, what we need is an antimicrobial agent. Lauric Acid present in Coconut Oil is one of them.
  • Sealant: Coconut Oil has high moisture retaining capacity, since it is not broken down easily nor evaporated, being very stable. It does not let moisture escape thus keeping hair moistened and soft. This prevents breakage of hair.

Olive Oil

One of the main benefits of olive oil is its nourishing property. Used on hair, olive oil can nourish, condition, and improve the strength and elasticity. Cosmetics with an olive oil base nurture your skin by maintaining a moisture balance that both soothes dry skin and absorbs easily to nourish deep beneath the surface. This therapeutic quality is especially important to those who suffer with skin rashes, eczema, psoriasis and allergies.


Olive oil contains mostly monounsaturated fats. Which means that it's molecule chain only contains 1 kink allowing it to penetrate the hair fiber more readily than other unsaturated oils, but not as readily as saturated oils such as coconut oil. Olive oil is a natural ingredient perfect for dry hair and heated oil treatments. Benefits include:
 
  • Sealant- Prevents hair dryness by creating barrier between hair and the elements
  • Split ends- Helps smooth split ends by smoothing hair cuticles
  • Hair loss- Most people have hair loss because of the presence of a hormone called DTH which causes the hair follicle shaft to decrease. Applying olive oil to hair prevents the production of DTH hormones on the scalp, thus getting rid of the problem of hair loss.
  • Scalp health- The presence of antioxidants in olive oil makes it an appropriate hair oil that promotes overall scalp health.
  • Natural conditioner for hair- applying olive oil to hair makes it shiny and soft.
  • Dandruff and head lice- The antifungal and antibacterial properties of olive oil is a great way to get rid of problems like dandruff and head lice.

Castor Oil

Castor oil, like coconut oil, also displays polar properties allowing it to attach to hair's keratin (although not at readily as coconut oil). The reason behind the popularity of the usage of castor oil for treating hair problems lies is the presence of ricin/ricinoleic acid in the oil, which is germicidal, insecticidal and fungicidal. Therefore using the oil will keep the hair from microbial and fungal infections thus, lessening hair loss.



  • Prevents dryness- Castor oil contains Omega-9 fatty acids which help moisturize the hair and the scalp preventing both from becoming dry, which helps reduce and prevent damage
  • Seals in moisture-  To keep the hair looking soft and shiny, moisture has to be retained by the hair. This can be taken care of by castor oil, as it is a humectant (any substance that is added to another substance to keep it moist).
  • Thin ends- This rich, thick oil will hide the appearance of frizzy, damaged, and split ends. Over time, as you trim damage away, you'll notice your hair won't develop split ends as easily.
  • Hide damage-If there is any damage caused to the hair, the use of this oil will not only manage to hide the damage, but at the same time, will work effectively in making the hair grow thicker than before.
  • Dandruff-It is recommended to mix castor oil with that of jojoba and massage it on the scalp. Regular application would not only take care of the dandruff, but would also help in lessening itchy scalp.
  • Prevents Hair Loss: One of the most responsible reasons behind hair fall and hair loss is microbial action on the scalp and hair roots. So, to protect hair against them, what we need is an antimicrobial agent, which is found in castor oil
  • Eyelashes- Apply a bit of the oil over the base of the eyelashes every night before bed, and get thicker and fuller lashes in some time.
Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is considered to be most like natural hair oil or sebum  (the body's naturally produced moisturizer) produced by the sebaceous glands in our scalps. Jojoba is a traditional treatment in many cultures for relieving skin problems and promoting hair growth. It is effective in reducing dandruff and for moisturizing very dry skin. More specifically is works as a(n):
  • Scalp Cleanser- A main benefit from jojoba is its ability to dissolve crusted sebum build-up on the scalp which can cause hair breakage and follicle blockage and, in turn, hair loss.
  • Antibacterial- Jojoba oil is used for treating sores, cuts, bruises and burns and helps heal scars.
  • Scalp issue reliever- Jojoba oil works well on the scalp and keeps it from being dry. This is a great oil to treat dandruff, dry scalp, and psoriasis on the scalp. It also promotes a healthy scalp with its antibacterial properties.
  • Hair Sealant-Although many websites state that jojoba oil penetrates the hair shaft to make it thicker, this type of oil does not actually penetrate hair. However, it seals in moisture, and thus can make each hair stronger and thicker, and prevent breakage.
  • Jojoba oil also delays aging through its unique anti-oxidant properties which protect the hair and scalp from free radical damage.
Conclusion

As you probably noticed, many of these oils share benefits. For one, they each work as an effective sealant to lock moisture into hair strands. By coating strands, they each also work to make hair thicker and stronger overtime. However, each also has unique properties. Coconut oil is most known to penetrate hair fibers thereby strengthen them and preventing against the stripping effects of shampooing. Jojoba oil is most known for is likeness to sebum, our body's natural moisturizer, and it's ability to mimic sebum by cleansing the scalp and moisturizing the hair. Olive oil is most known for its nourishing qualities, which conditions the hair thus improving its elasticity. Outside of its reputation for its laxative qualities, Castor oil is known for its strengthening qualities and aid in hair loss and hair damage remedying. Argan oil is most known for its high concentration of vitamin E and fatty acids which is great for skin, but also aids in improving damaged hair. Whichever oils you decide best serves the needs of your hair, be sure to get it in its pure form. Don't be fooled by the naming and packaging of products, check out the ingredients list for yourself! NOTE: Pictures located in this post are examples of products that are not 100% natural. I would recommend purchasing the natural, same name, alternatives.

References:

Friday, July 27, 2012

Understanding Hair a Little Bit Better


Understanding hair bonds will allow you to make better decisions when considering chemical processes such as relaxers and when styling your hair. Also, I will make reference to this whenever I get to create the "What relaxers do to hair....scientifically speaking" page.


Hair Bonds



Cross-bonds and linkages create a network of strength that reinforces hair fibers.





  •  Disulfate bonds

    • These bonds join the sulfur atoms of 2 nearby cysteine amino acid chains
      • The more disulfate bonds, the kinkier and curlier the hair
      • These bonds can't be broken by water or heat, only by chemical agents
      • Relaxers work to disrupt these bonds and once these bonds are broken they cannot be reformed

  •  Salt bonds

    • These bonds are formed when a positively charged end of an amino chain links to another amino acid chain's negative end
      • These bonds are weaker than disulfate bonds and are broken by pH changes in the hair in either direction (acidic or alkaline)
      • Bond breaks are not permanent, they can be reformed and stabilized by readjusting hair's pH

  • Hydrogen bonds

    • These bonds are what allows us to change the shape of our hair (i.e. from curly (wet) to straight (blow dried or stretched)
    • These are the most flexible bonds in hair. They are easily broken with water or heat
    • When wet, hair's molecules move in and break up our hair's present hydrogen bonds and form new ones
      • Think of a roller set, we apply them when hair is wet and as hair dries, hydrogen rebonding occurs in the new shape of the hairstyle and the water remains in position until hair is re-wet (or when humidity strikes!)

Thursday, July 26, 2012

My Experience with Henna

Many of you may know Henna for its most popular use as the ink for semi-permanent tattoos. However, there has been a big rave about also using Henna to color and condition hair.

There is evidence that this plant based, all natural substance was regularly used over 5,000 years ago to condition and strengthen hair, to color hair and to cover gray hair. Because Body Art Quality Henna does not have metals, lead and does not coat the hair but instead penetrate and bind with hair's keratin protein bonds, they are rumored to actually make hair thicker, stronger and silkier!

Due to the all natural, chemical free nature of Henna and all the raves from other naturals and transitioners who swear by Henna, I decided to give it a try. However, I am always cautious when trying new things on my hair, so I decided to use a Henna Gloss instead of a traditional Henna- because Henna is loaded with protein, and  I didn't want to throw off my moisture-protein balance.

Below I will cover:
  • The benefits and draw backs of Henna
  • The difference between a traditional Henna and a Henna Gloss
  • How I mix my Henna
  • Pictures of my results
The Benefits of Henna

  • all natural, permanent hair color
  • can be done as often as desired
  • beneficial to relaxed, natural and previously colored hair
  • reduces dandruff
  • eliminates ringworm and head lice
  • decreases hair shedding after several uses
    • Lawsonia inermis contains tannin known as hennotannic acid.  Tannins are slightly astringent and their use will tighten the surface of the scalp and hair follicles, strengthening the follicles’ grasp on each hair.
  • easy to apply at home
  • by penetrating the hair shaft (molecules are small enough to penetrate cuticle layers) Henna is able to:
    • strengthen hair
    • smooth cuticles
    • thicken hair
    • make hair more resistant to breakage
The Drawbacks of Henna
  • Can be very messy to apply
  • Time-consuming
  • Can only be used to color large sections of hair (can't be used for highlighting)
  • Not usually offered in salons
  • desired coloring result may be repeated applications away
  • There are a few frauds that are not all-natural (be sure to purchase BAQ- Body Art Quality- Henna)
  • Traditional Henna can be drying to some hair types. Try a Henna Gloss if this is the case.
Traditional Henna VS Henna Gloss

The only difference between a traditional Henna and a Henna Gloss is that a ton of conditioner (or yogurt) is added to the mix of a traditional Henna to make a Henna Gloss. The conditioner (or yogurt) added makes the mixture easier to apply to hair, adds a conditioning component to combat potential dryness and for some weakens the coloring effects.

My Henna Gloss Mixture

Ingredients:
  • 100 grams of Jamila Henna (order from hennaforhair.com)
  • 1 cup of a light protein-free conditioner (I used a Tea Tree Conditioner from Trader Joes, but any cheap no silicone conditioner will work)
  • 1 tbs honey
  • 1/2 cup of olive oil
  • 1 cup of Black tea
  • And I think I through in a splash of Aloe Vera juice
How to Prepare Henna Mixture:

  • Mix the Henna with the Black tea in a good size Tupperware container
  • Add the other ingredients.
  • Mix thoroughly
  • Tightly cover Tupperware
  • Allow to sit for 6 hours (I let mine sit overnight) to allow color to release
  • Base ears, temples, nape etc. with Castor oil or Olive oil or even Vaseline to prevent staining
  • Apply Henna Gloss mixture to hair in sections (please wear gloves or your hands will be stained for a few days) 
  • Allow to sit on hair for 2 hours- overnight (I let mine sit for 4 hours, 1 of which was under a  hooded dryer)
  • Rinse hair until water runs clear
  • Use a conditioner to wash out remaining Henna Gloss Mixture (many people also follow with a deep conditioning, but my hair was so soft (and it was so late) that I didn't bother)
  • Style as usual (I twisted pin curled my hair and let it air dry overnight- see picture below)

Can you see the hit of red? It is most prominent in the areas where my highlights used to be, and it is very noticeable in the sun! (you can also see the color in pictures posted on the low-manipulation page)

Other naturals have reported that the color gets more intense each time you Henna your hair, so I will post a picture the next time I Henna to see how it comes out.

Some, not all, naturals have also reported that when they traditional Henna their hair they notice that their curl pattern loosens (some see this as a good thing and others don't). I chose to Henna Gloss so my color wouldn't be too intense on the first try, my curl pattern wouldn't be altered and to avoid potential drying effects some have noticed with traditional Henna.

I absolutely love the results. The color is nice and my hair feels so strong! I will certainly continue to Henna Gloss every month or so. If the color gets exactly where I want it, then I will either put less Henna powder in the Henna Gloss Mixture or only apply it to the new growth.

Comment Below: What have been your experiences with Henna Gloss or Traditional Henna? Do you have any tips to share?  Questions to ask? Have you heard things about Henna, but haven't tried it yet? Whatever you know, think, feel or have experienced with Henna let us know by sharing in the comment box below! (To comment, just click the  "__ comments" link below- it might say No comments, or 1 comment, etc.)