pH and Hair

"Making every day a 'good hair day' isn't that difficult once you understand the importance of balanced pH and how to obtain it" (Batey, eHow, 2012).

What is pH?

pH indicates how acid or alkaline a water soluble substance is. The scale ranges from 0 to 14 with 0 being a very strong acid and 14 being a very strong alkali (aka a base). Both strong acids and alkalis should be avoided as they will burn skin. 7 on the pH scale is neutral, which is the pH of water (50% acid and 50% alkaline).

What is the Effect on Hair?

The structure of the hair is made of two main parts- three for some people. The outer layer, called the cuticle, consists of 5-11 overlapping scales of cells that protect the cortex underneath. The cortex comprises 80-90% of the hair fiber and consists of chains of proteins that coil to form the hair fiber's structure. These protein chains also gives hair its strength and elasticity. The cortex is also where melanin (which denotes your natural hair colour) can be found. The medulla is found only in thick, course hair. It has no significance, except to make the hair thicker. When your hair becomes damaged the scales of the cuticle can stand out or break off, exposing the cortex and making your hair feel dryer and harder to brush.

Our hair and skin are covered with a thin, acidic film called the acid mantle. This gives our hair and skin a natural pH of 4 to 5.5. Maintaining the acid mantle is important for hair. Although a pH of 7 is neutral on the pH scale, your hair products should be more acidic and fall between a pH of 4 to 5.5.

Acidic products have more hydrogen ions resulting in the cuticles closing and smoothing.

• Acidic pH (0 to 3.9)
• Affects hair by constricting cuticles causing them to lie flat and tightly against each other- protecting the cortex
• Hair better reflects light
• Hairs move freely against each other

Alkaline products have fewer hydrogen ions and more hydroxide ions, which lift the cuticles – causing damage and dryness. This can cause damage to the inner layer (cortex) of the hair strand as well.

• Alkaline pH (5.5 to 14)
• Causes hair's cuticles to lift and hair shaft to swell and open, leaving the cortex exposed and vulnerable
• Hair becomes tangly, dry-looking, and shineless and it is difficult to hold moisture in (due to the cuticles being lifted)
• Damage is imminent if hair is not returned to pH of 4 to 5.5 after using alkaline products such as relaxers and hair dyes
• This is why we wash relaxers out with a neutralizing shampoo, to restore hair's pH to its healthy range

Hair is made up of four bonds: disulfide, peptide, hydrogen and salt. When the pH of the hair is changed either up or down, the salt bonds are affected. Knowing the pH level of your products is important because products that are too acidic can burn the hair and products that are too alkaline  will burn, swell and lift the cuticles on the hair strands increasing your chances of breaking the shingle-type cuticles. Also, when the cuticles are lifted too much, the cortex is exposed and will become severely damaged.

How to Determine Hair's pH

The pH of your hair equals the sum of the pH of all products used divided by the number of products used. Therefore, to ensure that your hair's pH is where it should be, follow the steps below.

1. Determine the pH of each of the products you will use. If your products do not have their pH listed, then purchase pH strips and test your products.
2. Add up the pH levels of each of the products you will use (i.e. shampoo, conditioner, moisturizer, styling gel) NOTE: Oils do not have a pH and do not effect pH.
3. Divide the pH level total by the number of products.

Example:
Shampoo pH      7
Conditioner pH  4
Moisturizer pH   5
Gel pH                6

Total pH            22
Divide by # of products (4)= 5.5 This is a healthy pH, so I would be fine here. However, if it were anything higher I would advise adjusting your pH.

How to Adjust Hair's pH

There are two ways that I typically adjust the pH of my hair.

Solution #1
Use  a natural acid to bring your hair's pH into a 4-5.5 range. I usually pour aloe vera juice (pH of 4) in a bottle and mist it over my hair. This closes the cuticles and removes frizz. Some people use apple cider vinegar (pH of 3) by diluting it with water until the pH reaches 4. NOTE: Do not rinse hair with water after applying the acid (aloe or vinegar) because the water (pH of 7) will raise the pH of your hair again.

Solution #2
Apply a leave-in conditioner to wet hair to return to 4-5.5 pH. This works well if your hair is dry or damaged. I use a homemade leave-in conditioner with the following ingredients:

• 2 tbsp of a silicone free conditioner
• 2 tbsp of whole-leaf aloe vera juice
• 2 tsp of jojoba oil

After mixing the ingredients, test with a pH strip to ensure pH is not under 4. Then apply the mixture to damp, washed hair. Air dry and style.

How to Control Hair with pH

I love the idea of manipulating the pH of your hair to achieve the look and style your desire. The videos below do such an awesome job of explaining how to do this that I rather send you directly to the source rather than rephrasing her words. Check it out!

References   Read more:  http://www.ehow.com/how_4423524_balance-ph-hair.html#ixzz22JJPRXj8