Shedding and Breakage

"By far, the number one challenge facing those of us who are trying to achieve healthier hair is chronic hair breakage."


No strand of hair will remain on your head forever- no matter how well you care for it. Each hair fiber must go through the standard 3 phases of hair grow, which includes shedding (see Hair Growth page for more information on the 3 phases of hair growth). If you notice stray hairs on your bathroom counter, you can relax, this is inevitable...if those hairs were shed, that is.

But what if those hairs broke off prematurely? Well, if this is the case for you then you have to adjust your hair styling/ handling techniques, the products you use on your hair or your hair care regimen. But, before you can make this determination you must find out if your hair is breaking or not.

Distinguishing a Shed Hair from a Broken Hair:

1. Usually broken hairs are shorter than shed hairs (because the entire strand of a shed hair is shed while a hair can break at any point along the strand)

2. The end of a shed hair has a white bulb (because melanin production stops in the final phase of hair growth) and the end of a broken hair does not.


Shed hair (notice it is long and it has a white bulb on the end).
Examining the fallen hairs you notice after styling, washing, etc. can give you information about 1) whether your hair is shedding normally or excessively (which is a symptom for several medical concerns), and 2) if you are experiencing excessive breakage.



Causes of Excessive Shedding
  • After giving birth,
  • Stopping birth control
  • Crash dieting
  • Thyroid disorders
  • Medicines
  • Chemo-therapy
  • Menopause

Causes of Excessive Breakage
If you notice many short hairs with no white bulbs at the ends after styling, then your hair is experiencing breakage. The leading cause of hair breakage is protein and moisture imbalances in the hair fiber.

Moisture Deficient Hair is Caused By...
  • Sun
  • Harsh shampoos
  • Heavy oils
  • Heat styling
  • Over use of protein treatments and gels
  • Not sealing moisture into hair (thus allowing moisture to evaporate from hair)
  • Not drinking enough water
Protein Deficient Hair is Caused By...
  • Sun
  • Coloring
  • Relaxing
  • Over use of deep-conditioning treatments not balanced with protein-building products
  • Keeping hair is damp or wet states for long periods of time
Breakage Levels

Minimal
  • Less than 5 broken hairs when dry
  • Less than 10 when wet
  • Breakage usually occurs when hair is handled roughly
 Moderate
  • 10-15 broken hairs when dry
  • 15-20 when wet
  • Breakage occurs with normal manipulation
  • Hair covers floor and sink after styling 
Heavy
  • 10-15 broken hairs when dry
  • 15-20 when wet
  • Breakage occurs easily with gentle manipulation
  •  Hair covers floor and sink after styling  

How to Determine Break Type

Moisture Deficient

Your hair needs more moisture if it feels rough, hard and tangly when wet. Also, if your hair doesn’t stretch much before breaking, it is moisture deficient.

Protein Deficient

Your hair needs more protein if it feels weak, gummy and limp when wet. Also, if your hair stretches and stretches before breaking, it is protein deficient.

Stay tuned for a page on Correcting Moisture and Protein Imbalances...



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