Which oil should you buy?

Oils seem to be all the rave lately- and with good reason. Numerous products are now being named after plant-based oils even though they only contain trace amounts of these oils- don't believe me? Check out the ingredients list!

  To ensure you are not being riped off, and more importantly, you are not purchasing products for their natural qualities only to find that they are loaded with silicones and synthetic oils, be sure to either check the ingredients list or purchase your oils from Whole Foods, Big Bear or other natural food stores. When checking the ingredients of natural oils, the only ingredient listed should be the name of the oil you are purchasing.

Ok, so now you know to check the ingredients list or purchase from natural food stores, but which oil should you purchase? This post will compare the 5 most popular oils by properties and benefits and leave it up to you to choose!

 

Argan Oil Benefits:

While argan oil has many benefits, most of them pertain to skin health. Because it contains 80% fatty acids with loads of vitamin E, not only does is make your skin extremely soft and supple, it helps cure many skin ailments such as acne, stretchmarks, eczema and psoriasis. The Argan leaves also have a high concentration of polyphenols, known for their anti-free radical properties and for the prevention of skin aging.

As an oil treatment, Argan oil helps seal the hair cuticle to protect against damage caused by chemicals as well as excessive heat from styling and environmental abuses. Read the product label to see where Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, or Argan oil, is listed as an ingredient. The earlier you find it in the list, the greater the quantity found in the product. Argan oil is traditionally used to treat:

• Split ends- Argan oil contains unsaturated fats omega 3 and omega 9 which helps prevent split ends by strengthening the protein bonding structures of the hair
• Dry, itchy scalp- Apply to scalp and wrap head in a warm towel for 30 minutes or overnight to soothe irritation.
• Dull hair- If your hair lacks luster, smooth it on for intense shine and vibrancy.
• 
  Damage protection/ sealant- Helps seal moisture in the hair cuticle to prevent damage caused by dryness, also, contains vitamin E which is great for a healthy scalp and repairing damaged hair

Coconut Oil Benefits

The main benefit of coconut oil for your hair is that its molecules are small enough to actually penetrate the hair shaft and deposit the nutrients of the oil directly to the hair shaft. You see, coconut oil is a saturated oil. Saturated oils are solid at room temperature (can be softened easily by running container under hot water). These oils can more readily penetrate hair fibers than other oils due to their straight chain molecules, which allow them to slip easily into hair fibers. Coconut oil also has polar properties, which means that 1 end of each molecule is positively charged and the other is negatively charged. Its polarity properties are attracted to hair's keratin protein deep in hair fibers. This is beneficial for several reasons: 1) strengthens overall hair fibers, 2) reduces rate hair shaft is able to expand when wet, which prevents hygral fatigue- when hair expands too much when wet and breaks while drying.

FYI: A study by researchers A. S. Rele and R. B. Mohile published in the "Journal of Cosmetic Science" in 2003 showed that coconut oil reduced protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. The researchers suggest that since coconut oil is a triglyceride of a principal fatty acid -- lauric acid -- it has a high affinity for hair proteins. The study said "because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, [coconut oil] is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft."

Coconut oil, like olive oil, works especially well for those with coarse or thick hair since it is a thicker oil.

• Prevents Shampoo Damage: Saves hair from protein stripping effects of shampoo
• Prevents Hygral fatigue
• Prevents Lice
• Anti-Dandruff: The various fatty acids present in Coconut Oil serve as very good anti dandruff agents and are way better than any anti dandruff shampoo.
• Styling: Coconut oil can be good styling oil for hair too, as it melts on heating and then condenses on cooling. So when you apply it on your hair, it thins and spreads evenly due to heat of the scalp. Soon afterwards, as the hair comes in contact with air, the oil on hair condenses on cooling and thus works as a styling gel or cream.
• Prevents Hair Loss: One of the most responsible reasons behind hair fall and hair loss is microbial action on the scalp and hair roots. So, to protect hair against them, what we need is an antimicrobial agent. Lauric Acid present in Coconut Oil is one of them.
• Sealant: Coconut Oil has high moisture retaining capacity, since it is not broken down easily nor evaporated, being very stable. It does not let moisture escape thus keeping hair moistened and soft. This prevents breakage of hair.

Olive Oil

One of the main benefits of olive oil is its nourishing property. Used on hair, olive oil can nourish, condition, and improve the strength and elasticity. Cosmetics with an olive oil base nurture your skin by maintaining a moisture balance that both soothes dry skin and absorbs easily to nourish deep beneath the surface. This therapeutic quality is especially important to those who suffer with skin rashes, eczema, psoriasis and allergies.

Olive oil contains mostly monounsaturated fats. Which means that it's molecule chain only contains 1 kink allowing it to penetrate the hair fiber more readily than other unsaturated oils, but not as readily as saturated oils such as coconut oil. Olive oil is a natural ingredient perfect for dry hair and heated oil treatments. Benefits include:
 

• Sealant- Prevents hair dryness by creating barrier between hair and the elements
• Split ends- Helps smooth split ends by smoothing hair cuticles
• Hair loss- Most people have hair loss because of the presence of a hormone called DTH which causes the hair follicle shaft to decrease. Applying olive oil to hair prevents the production of DTH hormones on the scalp, thus getting rid of the problem of hair loss.
• Scalp health- The presence of antioxidants in olive oil makes it an appropriate hair oil that promotes overall scalp health.
• Natural conditioner for hair- applying olive oil to hair makes it shiny and soft.
• Dandruff and head lice- The antifungal and antibacterial properties of olive oil is a great way to get rid of problems like dandruff and head lice.

Castor Oil

Castor oil, like coconut oil, also displays polar properties allowing it to attach to hair's keratin (although not at readily as coconut oil). The reason behind the popularity of the usage of castor oil for treating hair problems lies is the presence of ricin/ricinoleic acid in the oil, which is germicidal, insecticidal and fungicidal. Therefore using the oil will keep the hair from microbial and fungal infections thus, lessening hair loss.

• Prevents dryness- Castor oil contains Omega-9 fatty acids which help moisturize the hair and the scalp preventing both from becoming dry, which helps reduce and prevent damage
• Seals in moisture-  To keep the hair looking soft and shiny, moisture has to be retained by the hair. This can be taken care of by castor oil, as it is a humectant (any substance that is added to another substance to keep it moist).
• Thin ends- This rich, thick oil will hide the appearance of frizzy, damaged, and split ends. Over time, as you trim damage away, you'll notice your hair won't develop split ends as easily.
• Hide damage-If there is any damage caused to the hair, the use of this oil will not only manage to hide the damage, but at the same time, will work effectively in making the hair grow thicker than before.
• Dandruff-It is recommended to mix castor oil with that of jojoba and massage it on the scalp. Regular application would not only take care of the dandruff, but would also help in lessening itchy scalp.
• Prevents Hair Loss: One of the most responsible reasons behind hair fall and hair loss is microbial action on the scalp and hair roots. So, to protect hair against them, what we need is an antimicrobial agent, which is found in castor oil
• Eyelashes- Apply a bit of the oil over the base of the eyelashes every night before bed, and get thicker and fuller lashes in some time.

Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is considered to be most like natural hair oil or sebum  (the body's naturally produced moisturizer) produced by the sebaceous glands in our scalps. Jojoba is a traditional treatment in many cultures for relieving skin problems and promoting hair growth. It is effective in reducing dandruff and for moisturizing very dry skin. More specifically is works as a(n):

• Scalp Cleanser- A main benefit from jojoba is its ability to dissolve crusted sebum build-up on the scalp which can cause hair breakage and follicle blockage and, in turn, hair loss.
• Antibacterial- Jojoba oil is used for treating sores, cuts, bruises and burns and helps heal scars.
• Scalp issue reliever- Jojoba oil works well on the scalp and keeps it from being dry. This is a great oil to treat dandruff, dry scalp, and psoriasis on the scalp. It also promotes a healthy scalp with its antibacterial properties.
• Hair Sealant-Although many websites state that jojoba oil penetrates the hair shaft to make it thicker, this type of oil does not actually penetrate hair. However, it seals in moisture, and thus can make each hair stronger and thicker, and prevent breakage.
• Jojoba oil also delays aging through its unique anti-oxidant properties which protect the hair and scalp from free radical damage.

Conclusion

As you probably noticed, many of these oils share benefits. For one, they each work as an effective sealant to lock moisture into hair strands. By coating strands, they each also work to make hair thicker and stronger overtime. However, each also has unique properties. Coconut oil is most known to penetrate hair fibers thereby strengthen them and preventing against the stripping effects of shampooing. Jojoba oil is most known for is likeness to sebum, our body's natural moisturizer, and it's ability to mimic sebum by cleansing the scalp and moisturizing the hair. Olive oil is most known for its nourishing qualities, which conditions the hair thus improving its elasticity. Outside of its reputation for its laxative qualities, Castor oil is known for its strengthening qualities and aid in hair loss and hair damage remedying. Argan oil is most known for its high concentration of vitamin E and fatty acids which is great for skin, but also aids in improving damaged hair. Whichever oils you decide best serves the needs of your hair, be sure to get it in its pure form. Don't be fooled by the naming and packaging of products, check out the ingredients list for yourself! NOTE: Pictures located in this post are examples of products that are not 100% natural. I would recommend purchasing the natural, same name, alternatives.

References:

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/facts_4830815_jojoba-oil-hairgrowth.html#ixzz22DhWlwQa

Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/279702-coconut-oil-vs-moroccan-oil-for-frizzy-hair/#ixzz22D7KDZ9o

Understanding Hair a Little Bit Better

Understanding hair bonds will allow you to make better decisions when considering chemical processes such as relaxers and when styling your hair. Also, I will make reference to this whenever I get to create the "What relaxers do to hair....scientifically speaking" page.

Hair Bonds



Cross-bonds and linkages create a network of strength that reinforces hair fibers.

•  Disulfate bonds

• These bonds join the sulfur atoms of 2 nearby cysteine amino acid chains
• The more disulfate bonds, the kinkier and curlier the hair
• These bonds can't be broken by water or heat, only by chemical agents
• Relaxers work to disrupt these bonds and once these bonds are broken they cannot be reformed

•  Salt bonds

• These bonds are formed when a positively charged end of an amino chain links to another amino acid chain's negative end
• These bonds are weaker than disulfate bonds and are broken by pH changes in the hair in either direction (acidic or alkaline)
• Bond breaks are not permanent, they can be reformed and stabilized by readjusting hair's pH

• Hydrogen bonds

• These bonds are what allows us to change the shape of our hair (i.e. from curly (wet) to straight (blow dried or stretched)
• These are the most flexible bonds in hair. They are easily broken with water or heat
• When wet, hair's molecules move in and break up our hair's present hydrogen bonds and form new ones
• Think of a roller set, we apply them when hair is wet and as hair dries, hydrogen rebonding occurs in the new shape of the hairstyle and the water remains in position until hair is re-wet (or when humidity strikes!)

My Experience with Henna

Many of you may know Henna for its most popular use as the ink for semi-permanent tattoos. However, there has been a big rave about also using Henna to color and condition hair.

There is evidence that this plant based, all natural substance was regularly used over 5,000 years ago to condition and strengthen hair, to color hair and to cover gray hair. Because Body Art Quality Henna does not have metals, lead and does not coat the hair but instead penetrate and bind with hair's keratin protein bonds, they are rumored to actually make hair thicker, stronger and silkier!

Due to the all natural, chemical free nature of Henna and all the raves from other naturals and transitioners who swear by Henna, I decided to give it a try. However, I am always cautious when trying new things on my hair, so I decided to use a Henna Gloss instead of a traditional Henna- because Henna is loaded with protein, and  I didn't want to throw off my moisture-protein balance.

Below I will cover:

• The benefits and draw backs of Henna
• The difference between a traditional Henna and a Henna Gloss
• How I mix my Henna
• Pictures of my results

The Benefits of Henna

• all natural, permanent hair color
• can be done as often as desired
• beneficial to relaxed, natural and previously colored hair
• reduces dandruff
• eliminates ringworm and head lice
• decreases hair shedding after several uses
• Lawsonia inermis contains tannin known as hennotannic acid.  Tannins are slightly astringent and their use will tighten the surface of the scalp and hair follicles, strengthening the follicles’ grasp on each hair.
• easy to apply at home
• by penetrating the hair shaft (molecules are small enough to penetrate cuticle layers) Henna is able to:
• strengthen hair
• smooth cuticles
• thicken hair
• make hair more resistant to breakage

The Drawbacks of Henna

• Can be very messy to apply
• Time-consuming
• Can only be used to color large sections of hair (can't be used for highlighting)
• Not usually offered in salons
• desired coloring result may be repeated applications away
• There are a few frauds that are not all-natural (be sure to purchase BAQ- Body Art Quality- Henna)
• Traditional Henna can be drying to some hair types. Try a Henna Gloss if this is the case.

Traditional Henna VS Henna Gloss

The only difference between a traditional Henna and a Henna Gloss is that a ton of conditioner (or yogurt) is added to the mix of a traditional Henna to make a Henna Gloss. The conditioner (or yogurt) added makes the mixture easier to apply to hair, adds a conditioning component to combat potential dryness and for some weakens the coloring effects.

My Henna Gloss Mixture

Ingredients:

• 100 grams of Jamila Henna (order from hennaforhair.com)
• 1 cup of a light protein-free conditioner (I used a Tea Tree Conditioner from Trader Joes, but any cheap no silicone conditioner will work)
• 1 tbs honey
• 1/2 cup of olive oil
• 1 cup of Black tea
• And I think I through in a splash of Aloe Vera juice

How to Prepare Henna Mixture:

• Mix the Henna with the Black tea in a good size Tupperware container
• Add the other ingredients.
• Mix thoroughly
• Tightly cover Tupperware
• Allow to sit for 6 hours (I let mine sit overnight) to allow color to release
• Base ears, temples, nape etc. with Castor oil or Olive oil or even Vaseline to prevent staining
• Apply Henna Gloss mixture to hair in sections (please wear gloves or your hands will be stained for a few days) 
• Allow to sit on hair for 2 hours- overnight (I let mine sit for 4 hours, 1 of which was under a  hooded dryer)
• Rinse hair until water runs clear
• Use a conditioner to wash out remaining Henna Gloss Mixture (many people also follow with a deep conditioning, but my hair was so soft (and it was so late) that I didn't bother)
• Style as usual (I twisted pin curled my hair and let it air dry overnight- see picture below)

Can you see the hit of red? It is most prominent in the areas where my highlights used to be, and it is very noticeable in the sun! (you can also see the color in pictures posted on the low-manipulation page)

Other naturals have reported that the color gets more intense each time you Henna your hair, so I will post a picture the next time I Henna to see how it comes out.

Some, not all, naturals have also reported that when they traditional Henna their hair they notice that their curl pattern loosens (some see this as a good thing and others don't). I chose to Henna Gloss so my color wouldn't be too intense on the first try, my curl pattern wouldn't be altered and to avoid potential drying effects some have noticed with traditional Henna.

I absolutely love the results. The color is nice and my hair feels so strong! I will certainly continue to Henna Gloss every month or so. If the color gets exactly where I want it, then I will either put less Henna powder in the Henna Gloss Mixture or only apply it to the new growth.

Comment Below: What have been your experiences with Henna Gloss or Traditional Henna? Do you have any tips to share?  Questions to ask? Have you heard things about Henna, but haven't tried it yet? Whatever you know, think, feel or have experienced with Henna let us know by sharing in the comment box below! (To comment, just click the  "__ comments" link below- it might say No comments, or 1 comment, etc.)

Hair Topics Vote

Hello everyone!

Over the next few weeks I will be busying myself with adding content to the pages listed on the right  (so far I have completed the first 4- check them out!). However, I want this to be more than a website to go to for information. I would like it to be interactive! So please comment below with any hair care topics you would like me to discuss, any styles you would like me to post video tutorials on, etc. Also, don't forget to become a follower of the page so you will get updates when new content is added!

If you are transitioning, please visit the "Welcome Transitioners," page on the right, and in the comment box introduce yourself and maybe add a current picture of where you are in the process (or a description is fine). Then, continue to check back and update us on your progress ( I will be posting update pictures monthly once I take my braids out). If you are a natural, give us transitioners some tips and insights!

Let's GROW!

-CurlieE

P.S. One of my natural friends offered some tips on using steamers to deep condition and detangle. Check it out in the comments section below!!!

Start Smart!

Thinking of Transitioning?

Thinking about transitioning from relaxed to natural hair but don't know where or how to start? I started by listening to the experiences and tips of a few ladies who have already done so via their YouTube channels. Below are a few videos I found helpful when thinking of making the decision to transition versus Big Chop (BC).

My Transition to CurlieE

February 2012- The Beginning of My Transition

This picture was taken the day I cut my bang. Obviously, I had no plans of going natural, rather, I was still working on making straightened hair work for me. However, I had made the decision to stop relaxing my hair because I remember I time when my hair was not processed, and I remember it being stronger, longer and healthier. However, over the 15+ years of relaxing my hair, it became very hard to keep moisturized (porous). Therefore, it broke easily. These two facts made it difficult to grow my hair past my shoulders.

How did I plan to keep the straight look without using a relaxer? Well, a few weeks prior to taking the above picture, I had gotten a Coppola Keratin Treatment. And it seemed to work wonders. Straight hair without using a relaxer- AND it is advertised to actually be good for hair!! I was planning to get the relaxed look, without relaxing by replacing relaxers with keratin treatments.

As with any hair endeavor, I started to research keratin treatments like crazy. I was reading blogs on how to make them last longer, how to do them myself, and how great they are for hair...However, I also started noticing blogs popping up about how the treatments were casuing some women's hair to fall out. These blogs, in addition to articles about the danger of formahyde, scared me off of keratin treatments as well.

I had received 2 keratin treatments over the course of 4  months before I stopped. Luckily, the keratin treatments wear off and the treated hair returns to its pre-keratin state (if the treatment is done properly and the hair does not suffer heat damage).

So I found myself with 4 months worth of new growth and no relaxers or keratin smooting treatments in my future! And the transition begins...



I started wearing lots of buns to hide the two textures, but my bang couldn't fit, so I continued to flat iron them.

 

Bun using tracks and bobby pins.




Bun without weave.



...Eventually I got wiser and stopped using heat altogether.

Check out the protective/ low-manipulation styles I come up with throughout my transition on the "Protective Styles" and "Low-manipulation Styles" pages. Also stay tuned for the ups and downs of my transition as I experience them, tips, my progress/ growth, and tons of pictures!!!

And please, offer feedback, tips, and ups and downs/memories of your own transition. Let's GROW...